As an editor/publisher, there is nothing more satisfying than a story that is completely new to me. When Joahna Hernandez first pitched me the idea for a story about semillas de pulque (pulque seeds), I was like, whoa, pulque requires a “starter” to get the fermentation rolling? And that’s just the tip of the iceberg! Joahna’s latest piece is a deep dive into not only how these semillas are created, but also what it means to be the keepers of a legacy that is thousands of years old.

To truly understand Mexico’s cultural connection to agave, you need to first look at pulque and I am not exaggerating when I say this is one of the most interesting stories I have read about it. Like its distilled relative mezcal, the flavors of pulque are determined by the hands of the maker and the seed recipes that they developed and passed down through generations - an original gusto histórico if you will. As Joahna writes:

“The seed is a starter,” he told me. “But it’s not like commercial yeast. Each one is built from trial, error, and environmental feedback—shaped by the place, the person, and the microbes available.” There is no universal recipe. And there shouldn’t be, he argues. “Some producers add roots, whey, fruits, or soil-bound ingredients to stabilize the microbial community. These aren’t arbitrary; they’re based on generations of practice. The soil itself may contain prebiotics and bacteria that help balance the fermentation.”

Pulque has been having a moment and has seen a resurgence of popularity. Ironically, this resurgence is happening at a time when the keepers of the seeds are dwindling in number and fewer members of the younger generations are stepping up to continue the practice. Joahna’s story is a peak into a world that could soon disappear.

We’ve also got another story from Joahna, a profile on Taller Astrafilia, a micro distillery in Mexico City that is making some of the best gins and licores in the market. Why? Ingredients, ingredients, ingredients. Also be sure to check out Tess Rose Lampert’s perfect cocktail to beat the summer heat that just won’t break - a raicilla celery slushy, some new Mezcal Encyclopedia terms and a course from the newly established Universidad del Mezcal. All links and information below.

Finally, if you haven’t yet, please take a couple minutes to fill out our reader survey.

Saludos,

Susan and the Mezcalistas Team

MEZCAL NEWS

MEZCAL EVENTS

• August 23rd, Tequila, Mezcal and More Book Launch at Sorbito, London

• August 23rd, Sabor y Cultura, Los Angeles

• September 13, Mezcal Por Siempre, Los Angeles

• September 21st, Copita Mexican Spirits Festival, St. Louis

• September 27th, Piña Agavera, Madrid (Spain)

• September 28th, Copitas, Ostend (Belgium)

• October 5th, Mexico in a Bottle San Diego

• October 18th, Dia de Muertos with Mezcal Salvadores, Oaxaca

• SAVE THE DATE: November 16th, Mexico in a Bottle San Francisco

SPOTLIGHT: UNIVERSIDAD DEL MEZCAL