A few weeks ago I was talking to Vicente Reyes on the phone. He has founded a few brands of mezcal over the years and successfully sold them. He was also an early mover on a probiotic non alcohol agave soda. And if that isn’t enough, he is the founder of the organization Hermano Maguey. With all of these projects, he is boots on the ground in Oaxaca and deeply committed to the success and sustainability of agave and mezcal. He is also worried.

Our conversation was an intense discussion of not only what is going on in Oaxaca (so much mezcal inventory, a crash in the price of agave) and in the US market (flat to down sales). There does seem to be a perfect storm of various factors that has exacerbated the situation— the politics of trade, a slowing alcohol market and the growth of NA beverages, so called premium products getting hit by fears of a recession. And these factors are all having serious repercussions on the ground in Mexico.

There is much about the current situation that is not at all surprising. There was an exuberance of production when it seemed like mezcal sales would be forever growing 25% year over year. This has resulted in a repetition of the cycle that has plagued tequila when it comes to agave production - the continual overplanting followed by underplanting which leads to a perpetual boom and bust for agave farmers. That the progression of the tequila industry has been a harbinger for mezcal of what not to do hasn’t kept much of the mezcal category from following down the same road. What has this meant? Changing production processes to meet demand, serious environmental repercussions and the consolidation of production and sales among a handful of brands/people.

It’s not all doom and gloom. From that conversation came this terrific piece from Vicente that eloquently and articulately lays out what is happening. It is thought provoking and asks poignant questions.

“Today, mezcal needs to pause, breathe, and rethink its path. It’s not just about numbers or markets, but about defining core values: authenticity, commitment to quality, economic inclusion, respect for the land, and cultural recognition. It’s time to decide whether we want to engage in a collective effort, centered on articulating interests and building consensus, or whether we will continue to promote only individual approaches that fragment more than they unite.”

We published both the original Spanish version as well as a translated version (thank you Felisa Rogers!) and it really deserves your attention because these issues aren’t going anywhere anytime soon.

Finally, be sure to check out our latest book listicle from Felisa Rogers that highlight 8 terrific books on Mexican history.

Saludos,

Susan and the Mezcalistas Team

MEZCAL NEWS

MEZCAL EVENTS

• October 4th, What’s in Your Mouth, San Diego

• October 5th, Mexico in a Bottle, San Diego

• October 18th-19th, Mezcalfest, Mexico City

• Oct 23rd, Bowl of Zole, Brooklyn

• November 16th, Mexico in a Bottle, San Francisco