Oftentimes it seems like there aren’t many places where you feel like you are really out in the middle of nowhere and away from it all, but that was exactly the case for me in Sonora last week. Three glorious days riding on rock laden dirt roads, surrounded by stunning views of mountains and crazy rock formations, with absolutely no cell or wifi service.

Last fall, Rafael Encinas, the producer of Batuq Bacanora invited me to visit his vinata near San Pedro de la Cueva in Sonora. The stars aligned around the Agave Heritage Festival and Doug Smith, owner of El Crisol in Tucson, and I made the drive down. We met up with Sebastian Encinas, son of Rafael, in Hermosillo where we jumped into his sturdy truck and took off for the mountains. While sadly they were not producing that week (production would start this week) it was an incredible opportunity to see more of the land of bacanora and spend time with the family. I was last there in 2022, but in the northern area of Rio Sonora. It was green and verdant, with plenty of monsoon rain at that time. This visit, the land was bone dry due to a two year drought that was taking its toll on everything, including the agave.

Water is actually a point of contention between the US and Mexico right now as Mexico has not been able to deliver water to the US as required by a water rights treaty. Given the parched landscape in Sonora, it is not hard to imagine why not, it would be drawing blood from a stone.

The Encinas now have two vinatas, one at each of their two ranches. The one ranch is where Batuq is produced, and where Rafael makes cheese. Everyone who makes bacanora has another job, usually as ranchers or farmers. There were no cattle at the Batuq ranch, they had been moved to the other ranch. They were putting the finishing touches on the new vinata where they are producing a bacanora called Cobata, which we sipped on over the two nights spent at the ranches. It was utterly delicious, not surprising given how good Batuq is. Nighttime was incredible, and while the half moon obscured a few stars, it was nothing like the light pollution you get in cities. It was fitting to see the constellation Scorpius in all its glory.

We feasted on beans and fresh made cheese, delicious carne and fried fish, chorizo and eggs and machaca (dried beef) with Sonoran flour tortillas on the side. There were hours of conversation about the history of bacanora, of family, of the drought and the market for bacanora in the US. And there were long moments of comfortable silence as we took n the beauty and breadth of where we were. All of this was a perfect precursor to the Agave Heritage Festival. I am still digesting the entire adventure and hope to have some pieces up n the next couple of weeks about both the festival and the bacanora trip.

We are lighter than usual on news, but be sure to check out Brooks Bailey’s dive into 10 classic cocktails and how mezcal makes them better. We’ve also got a special piece from Emma Janzen that looks at 5 tequilas for mezcal aficionados and a new Mezcal Encyclopedia entry - Horno. And if you are in Chicago, or plan on coming to Chicago for Mexico in a Bottle, be sure to check out below all of the amazing activities we have planned through out the weekend!

Saludos,

MEZCAL NEWS

MEZCAL EVENTS

• April 26th, What’s in Your Mouth, Chicago 

• April 26th, Women in Spirits, Chicago

• April 26th, Duranguense, Chicago

• April 26th, Taste of El Arenal, Chicago

• April 26th, Palomas Mensajeras/Rey Campero, Estereo Logan Square 2pm

• April 26th, Real del Valle/Divino Maguey, Estereo Fulton Market 2pm

• April 27th, Mexico in a Bottle, Chicago - GOING FAST!!!

• April 28th, Mezcal Lotería, Chicago (Casa Humilde Cerveceria 6pm)

• April 28th, Mexican-ish Dinner with Cascahuin, Chicago

• June 6th-9th, Mexico in a Bottle Durango (package deals)

• June 7th, Mexico in a Bottle Durango (event only)

• June 27th-30th, Mezcal Culture Fest, Miami